Whether it is to breathe new life into a commuter or work vehicle, or for hobby in a classic car, there are many cases in which rebuilding an engine can be a great alternative to replacing one. Generally speaking, can be a large task, but one that is very possible with proper research, planning, and preparation.As the exact difficulty of a job like this can vary greatly depending on the exact model of engine, and the number different types of engines is great, we will focus on how to rebuild a classic pushrod style engine. The pushrod design uses an engine block shaped like a “V”, places the camshaft in the block, and uses pushrods to actuate the cylinder heads.The pushrod has been used for many decades, and remains popular to this day due to its its reliability, simplicity, and easy access to parts, when compared to other engine designs.

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In this step by step guide, we will go over what a typical engine rebuild would entail. Part 1 of 9: Preparing the vehicle and your toolsMaterials Needed. Basic set of hand tools. Electric drill.(to remove engine).

Flashlight. Masking tape.(at least 2). Permanent marker. Plastic sandwich bags and boxes (to store and organize hardware and parts).

Service Manual.Step 1: Research and preview the removal procedure. Before beginning, thoroughly research the removal and rebuild procedures for your specific vehicle and engine and gather all of the necessary tools for the job.Most pushrod V8 engines have very similar designs, however it is always a good idea to be knowledgeable on the specifics of the vehicle or engine you are working on.If necessary, purchase a service manual, or find one on online, so that the exact procedures for a thorough, and quality rebuild are followed. Part 2 of 9: Draining the vehicle’s fluidsStep 1: Raise the front of the vehicle. Raise the front of the vehicle off the ground, and lower it onto jack stands. Set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks underneath the rear wheels.Step 2: Drain the engine’s oil into a pan. Place fender covers on both fenders, and then proceed to drain the engine’s oil and coolant into your drain pans.Take precaution to drain the oil and coolant into separate pans, as the two mixed together can sometimes make proper disposal and recycling more difficult. Part 3 of 9: Prepare the engine for removalStep 1: Remove any plastic covers.

While the fluids are draining, proceed to removing any of the engine’s plastic covers, as well as any air intake tubes or filter housings that need to be removed before the engine can come out.Place any hardware you remove into sandwich bags, and then label the bags using the masking tape and marker, so that no hardware gets lost, or left over during reassembly.Step 2: Remove the radiator. Once the fluids are drained and covers removed, proceed to remove the radiator from the vehicle.Remove the radiator brackets, undo the upper and lower radiator hoses, as well as any transmission lines if necessary, and then remove the radiator from the vehicle.Removing the radiator will prevent it from possibly being damaged when the engine is being lifted out of the vehicle.Also, take this time to disconnect any heater hoses going to the firewall, most vehicles will usually have two of them that need to be removed.Step 3: Disconnect the battery and starter. Next, disconnect the battery, and then all of the engine’s various harnesses and connectors.Use the flashlight to carefully check around the entire engine, including the underside and near the firewall, to make sure that no connectors are missed.Also remember to disconnect the starter, which will be located on the underside of the engine. Once all of the electrical connectors have been unplugged, set the harness over to the side, out of the way.Step 4: Remove the starter and exhaust manifolds. With the harness out of the way, proceed to removing your starter and unbolting the engine’s exhaust manifolds from their respective downpipes, and if necessary from the engine cylinder heads.Some engines can be removed with the exhaust manifolds still bolted on, while others require definite removal, refer to your service manual for specifics if you are unsure.Step 5: Remove the air compressor and belts.

Next, if your vehicle is equipped with air conditioning remove the belts, and unbolt the air conditioning compressor from the engine and set it aside, out of the way.If possible, leave the air conditioning lines attached to the compressor, as the system will need to be refilled with refrigerant later if it is opened.Step 6: Unbolt the engine from transmission. Proceed to unbolting the engine from the transmission bell housing.Support the transmission with a jack if there is not a crossmember or mount securing it onto the vehicle, and then remove all of the bell housing bolts.Put all of the removed hardware in a plastic bag, and label it for easier identification during reassembly. Part 4 of 9: Removing the engine from the vehicleStep 1: Prepare your engine hoist. At this point, position your engine hoist over the engine, and attach the chains to the engine in a safe and secure manner.Some engines will have hooks or brackets specifically in place for the engine hoist to hook onto, while others will require you to thread a bolt and washer through one of the chains links.If you do run a bolt through one of the chains links, make sure that the bolt is of a high grade, and that it threads adequately into the bolt hole, as to ensure that it does not break, or damage the threads, with the weight of the engine.Step 2: Unbolt the engine from the motor mounts. Once the engine hoist is properly secured to the engine and all of the transmission bolts are removed, proceed to unbolting the engine from the motor mounts, leaving the motor mounts attached to the vehicle if possible.Step 3: Carefully lift the engine out of the car.

The engine should now be ready to come out. Carefully double check to make sure that no electrical connectors or hoses remain connected, and that all the necessary hardware is removed, and then proceed to lift the engine out.Lift it out slowly, and carefully maneuver it up and away from the vehicle. If necessary, have someone help you with this step, as engines are very heavy, and can be cumbersome to try and maneuver on one's own.

Part 5 of 9: Mounting the engine onto the engine standStep 1: Place the engine on an engine stand. I specifically asked for Bernie to come back, since I was so pleased with the work he did on our other car. This time I got to meet Bernie personally.

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He is a kind family-man who exhibited the quiet confidence of someone you would expect with the 50 years of automotive experience that he has. I felt very comfortable giving him the key to my car. Two of my kids (ages two and four) came out to greet him, since they remembered him from his first visit. Bernie is great around kids and was very kind to my two-year old son who was trying to 'help' Bernie do his job.

Thanks again, Bernie!